How to Measure a Men’s Jacket

MEN’S STYLE TIPS

Instructions On Measuring a Men’s Jacket.

To get an exact fit on E-bay jackets!

By Andrew Harris

I’ve received requests from some of the members of the Ask Andy Forum for instructions on how to measure a men’s jackets. In order to take advantage of the great deals on eBay one has to learn how to properly measure a coat that fits well and to compare those measurements to those provided by the eBay seller. DO NOT rely on a tagged size. I’ve measured at least 2500 coats and believe me – tagged size means next to nothing. Instead measure the jacket in your wardrobe that fits you best. Memorize those measurements. Then use them as a baseline when looking at possible purchases on eBay.

So here goes. There are five measurements that most sellers provide when selling a tailored jacket. I’m using a (measured) size 42 Hermes sports jacket as an example.

1) Chest measurement

This is the most important measurement. It is the measurement that varies the least, it cannot be easily changed (altered,) and it determines the size of the jacket. In general the tagged size refers to the chest measurement of the individual.

So if your chest measures 42” you likely wear a size 42 jacket. It is a common misconception that a size 42 jacket would then have a 42” chest. This is NOT the case (if it did the jacket would be so tight you would have difficulty breathing and certainly would not be able to move.)

Almost every tailor and manufacturer on the planet cuts the chest of the jacket 4” larger than the actual chest measurement of the individual. Occasionally you will find jackets that measure 3” larger, or as much as 5” larger but 95% of the time it is 4” larger.

A size 42 jacket would have an actual chest (outseam) measurement of 46.” Beware of eBay sellers who say a jacket is a size 42 and that it measures 42” in the chest. Either a) it actually measures 42” and the jacket is therefore a size 38, or b) it is actually a size 42 and they don’t know how to measure correctly. Or some combination thereof.

To measure the chest of a jacket that fits you well, lay it on a clean flat surface and button it. If it is a two or three button jacket button the second button (from the bottom) only. If it is double breasted button it completely.

Arrange the jacket so that you get an accurate measurement. In the first picture the jacket is arranged properly.

Photo 1 – Chest Measuring

Photo 2: Inaccurate measurement due to stretching

In the second picture it is stretched too far which gives an inaccurately large measurement. You can tell it is stretched to far because the lapels are buckled outward.

Photo 3: Jacket not stretched far enough

In the third picture the jacket is not stretched out far enough. If you arrange it this way the fabric will be bunched up at the back of the jacket – giving an inaccurately small chest measurement.

This same method applies to all five measurements. Make sure you stretch the area you are measuring to the point where you are measuring the full amount of the fabric present – but do not overstretch it. If you overstretch it you are simulating a jacket that does not fit.

2) Waist measurement

The waist of the jacket can be found at different points depending on the make. It is usually found at the second button (from the bottom.) The waist measurement is usually 2-4” smaller than the chest measurement. 2” smaller on jackets that are targeted at older men (Hickey Freeman, Oxxford, most Brioni & Kiton etc.) 4” smaller on jackets that are meant for younger men (most designers.)

Waist Measurement

3)  Shoulder width

This measurement should be taken from shoulder seam to shoulder seam at the widest point (as pictured.)

Measuring shoulder width

4) Jacket Length

Measure from the bottom of the collar to the bottom of the coat as pictured. Some sellers indicate the overall length instead. In that case you can usually assume that the “bottom of collar to bottom of coat” measurement is 1.5” less (1.5” being the height of the collar.)

Measuring the jacket length

5) Sleeve length

This is taken from the top of the sleeve at the shoulder seam to the middle of the end of the sleeve (as pictured.) As you can see the end of the sleeve is often cut on a slant so make sure to measure in a straight line down the sleeve. I also indicate in my auctions how far the sleeves can be let down. I arrive at this measurement by feeling how much extra fabric there is and subtracting 1.” (I figure there should be at least 1” of fabric to hem under although some tailors may be able to use facing and make the sleeve even longer.)

Measuring sleeve length

Standard variations:

Within a certain size nearly every “standard” measurement is subject to change depending on the overall silhouette the designer or tailor is going for. Here are some common variations.

Chest  – The chest measurement is the only measurement that stays fairly consistent from brand to brand. And even that changes. Companies going for a slimmer, dressier look may cut the chest slightly smaller. Drape cut suits will have a slightly large chest. Also some “athletic cut” suits have a large chest measurement – usually combined with very wide shoulders and a very small waist. (Avoid this cut like the plague unless you are built like Arnold.) In general though, the chest is cut 4” larger than your actual chest measurement.

Waist – As mentioned the waist is usually cut larger on more expensive suits ($1000+) and slimmer on low-to-mid-range and designer suits.

Shoulder – Designers tweak the shoulder more than anything else. Currently they are running on the narrow side. You should determine a minimum (jacket) shoulder width for you personally. If the shoulder measurement listed in the auction is wider it may still look fine on you – it depends on the overall cut and also the look you are going for.

Jacket length – This is the other measurement that designers love to mess with. Currently jackets are being cut on the longer side. Generally 30” – 32” indicates a regular and 32” + indicates a long. The one rule to keep in mind – the jacket must cover your posterior.

Sleeve length – Sleeve length is the easiest alteration to make. Generally the sleeves will be too long as it’s easier to shorten a sleeve than it is too lengthen it. If the listed measurement is too short then ask the seller how much fabric there is to let the sleeve down.

Older suits –  older (10-20 years old) suits almost always have a waist that is 4” smaller than the chest. In fact the chest and shoulders are usually narrower too. Often if I’m selling an older suit (Oxxford for instance) that is tagged a size 44 I’ll sell it as a size 42. I do this because the measurements correspond to a current size 42 Oxxford suit.

European sizes – generally you get the US size by subtracting 10 from the European size. For  instance a Euro 52 usually corresponds to a US 42. But there are plenty of exceptions so rely on the measurements. The Hermes jacket pictured is tagged a Euro 54 and it measures to a slim 42.

Made to measure – a made to measure garment will  usually have tagged size that is 1-2 sizes larger than the actual measurements indicate. I’m guessing they start with a larger pattern and then cut it down as needed but I’m not certain.

Previously altered garments – If you buy previously worn garments they may have been altered. In this day and age most guys leave their jackets exactly as they bought them. But never assume. Rely on the measurements.

The strange and the unexplainable – When the tagged size has no basis in reality you are usually dealing with an Armani. I’ve seen a lot of Black Label jackets that were tagged a size 58 Euro that measured to a size 44 or even a 42. So once again – measurements are your most reliable guide.

Alterations – I get a lot of questions about what can and cannot be altered. Basically you can almost always alter the sleeves. And you can usually have the back taken in or out a bit to change the waist measurement. The chest and shoulders can be altered, but you will need a very skilled tailor. Jackets can also be shortened, but usually only by 1/2 “, any more and the pockets will look too low, unless they were placed high to begin with.

Hopefully this will be of some use, and I wish you all the best in your search for the perfect suit at the perfect price!

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Men's Size and Fit Guide

How to Measure

For best results, measure over your undergarments.

Chest:

Measure just under arms and across shoulder blades holding the tape firm and level. If your chest falls between sizes, order the next size up.

Waist:

Measure around your waistline, keeping the tape comfortably loose.

Inseam:

Measure pants that fit you well. Lay them flat, with the front and back creased smooth. Measure along the inseam from crotch to bottom of leg hem. Or, if you don't have pants that fit comfortably, measure from your crotch to your desired pant length.

Differences in Tall and Short Sizing:

Outerwear, Long-Sleeve Shirts and Sweats in Tall Sizes:

2" longer in the torso than Regular sizes.
2" longer in the sleeve than Regular sizes.

Short-Sleeve Shirts in Tall Sizes:

2" longer in the torso than Regular sizes.
½" longer in the sleeve than Regular sizes.

Coveralls in Tall Sizes:

1" longer in the torso than Regular sizes.
1" longer than in the sleeve length than Regular sizes.
Tall sizes in the X06 measure 2" longer in both the torso and sleeve length.

Coveralls in Short Sizes:

1" shorter in the sleeve than Regular sizes.

• Shirts, Outerwear, Thermal Tops
• Pants, Shorts, Thermal Bottoms
• Overalls, Coveralls, Bibs
• Accessories
• Scrubs

Shirts, Outerwear and Thermal Tops

How to measure

	Small		Medium		Large		X-Large		2X-Large		3X-Large		4X-Large
	34	36	38	40	42	44	46	48	50	52	54	56	58	60
Chest	34	36	38	40	42	44	46	48	50	52	54	56	58	60
Waist	28	30	32	34	36	38	40½	43	45½	48	51	54	58	62
Hip [Seat]	34	36	38	40	42	44	46	48	50	52	54	56	58	60

NOTE: If your chest and/or waist measurement falls between sizes, buy the larger size.

Shirt Fit Guide

Original Fit	A working man's fit with the most room to move
Relaxed Fit	A closer fit to the body built for work
Slim Fit	Our leanest fit for those who work tough

Pants, Shorts and Thermal Bottoms

How to measure

	Small	Medium	Large	X-Large	2X-Large	3X-Large	4X-Large
	S	M	L	XL	2XL	3XL	4XL
Waist Measurement All Pants & Shorts	28-30	31-34	35-38	39-42	43-46	47-50	51-54

If your normal inseam preference is:	You should order this size:
Inseam Measurement	Overall inseam Measurement
27–28	28
29–30	30
31–32	32
33–34	34
35–36	36

NOTE: If your inseam length falls between sizes, buy the longer size.

Straight Traditional Fit	Slim seat and thigh
Relaxed Fit	Relaxed seat and thigh
Loose Original Fit	Full seat and thigh

Overalls, Coveralls and Bibs

How to measure   For Overall styles FRR43, 100163 and 100445 please refer to the Shirts & Outerwear chart for sizing.

Waist Measurement	27	29	31	33	35	37	39	41	43	45	47	49	51	53	55	57
	28	30	32	34	36	38	40	42	44	46	48	50	52	54	56	58
Overall Styles R01/R02/R03/R06/R07/R28/R41 [If Worn Alone]	30	32	34	36	38	40	42	44	46	48	50	52	54	56	58	60
Overall Styles R01/R02/R03/R06/R07/R28/R41 [If Worn Over Other Clothes]	32	34	36	38	40	42	44	46	48	50	52	54	56	58	60	—
Overall Styles FRR44/FRR45/100171	—	28	30	32	34	36	38	40	42	44	46	48	50	52	54	56
Biberall Styles R33/R38 Overall Style R37	28	30	32	34	36	38	40	42	44	46	48	50	—	—	—	—
Waist Overall Styles B194	—	—	32	34	36	38	40	42	44	46	48	50	—	—	—	—

NOTE: If your waist measurement falls between sizes, buy the larger size.

Chest Measurement	34	36	38	40	42	44	46	48	50	52	54	56	58	60	62	64	66	68
Coat and Coverall Styles X06/100196/100162/101017	34	36	38	40	42	44	46	48	50	52	54	56	58	60	—	—	—	—
Coverall Styles X01/X02  [If Worn Alone]	38	40	42	44	46	48	50	52	54	56	58	60	—	—	—	—	—	—
Coverall Styles X01/X02  [If Worn Over Other Clothes]	40	42	44	46	48	50	52	54	56	58	60	—	—	—	—	—	—	—

NOTE: If your chest measurement falls between sizes, buy the larger size.

If your body measurement is:	You should order this size:
Height	Recommended Length of Garment	Length of Coverall Inseam
5'3" to 5'7"	Short*	28
5'7" to 5'11"	Regular	30
5'11" to 6'3"	Tall	32

Available in coveralls and bibs.

Belts

How to measure

If your Waist Size is:	31	32	33	34	35	36	37	38	39	40	41	42	43	44	45	46	47	48	49	50	51	52
Order this Belt Size:	34		36		38		40		42		44		46		48*		50*		52*		54*

*Sizes 48–54 are only available in select styles

Nail Apron

How to measure

	Small/Medium	Large/X-Large	2X-Large
Waist Range	Up to 42	Up to 48	Up to 52

Hats

	Medium/Large	Large/X-Large
Hat Measurement [diameter]	7 – 7¼	7 – 7
Head Measurement	22 – 22¾	23¼ – 23¾

Socks

	Men's Shoe Size
Small [7-9]	—
Medium [9-11]	5 – 10
Large [10-13]	6 – 12
X-Large [13-15]	11 – 15

Gloves

How to Measure Gloves

Hand Circumference: Flat, from the crook of thumb around outer edge of palm.

	X-Small	Small	Medium	Large	X-Large	XX-Large
Men	–	7½" – 8"	8½"	9" – 9½"	10" – 10½"	11" – 12"
Women	–	6½"	7"	7½"	–	–
Juniors	4"	4½"	5"	5½"	6"	–
Toddler	3½"	4"	4½"	5"	5½"	–

C-Grip Gloves

	X-Small	Small-Medium	Large-X-Large	XX-Large
Men	–	7½" – 8½"	9" – 10"	10½" – 12"
Women	6½"	7"	7½"	–

Scrubs

How to measure

Mens	Small		Medium		Large		X-Large		2X-Large		3X-Large		4X-Large		5X-Large
Chest	34	36	38	40	42	44	46	48	50	52	54	56	58	60	62	64
Waist	28	30	32	34	36	38	40	42	44	46	48	50	52	54	56	58
Hip [Seat]	34	36	38	40	42	44	46	48	50	52	54	56	58	60	62	64

NOTE: Regular Inseam is 31", Tall inseam is 34".

Unisex	X-Small		Small		Medium		Large		X-Large		2X-Large		3X-Large		4X-Large		5X-Large
Chest	32	33	34	36	37	39	40	43	44	47	48	51	52	55	56	59	60	63
Waist	24	25	26	28	29	31	32	35	36	39	40	43	44	47	48	51	52	55
Hip [Seat]	34	35	36	38	39	41	42	45	46	49	50	53	54	57	58	61	62	65

NOTE: Regular Inseam is 31"